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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end venues. But, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.